If you missed the beginning of this adventure, you can catch up on Part One of our East Coast journey from Sydney northwards here:
What began as a relaxed exploration of Australia’s east coast had already delivered iconic cities, coastal towns and standout stays. But it was Brisbane — and the journey north from there — where the trip became shaped as much by weather and chance as by planning.
Brisbane to Cairns: Weather, Waiting and Fingers Crossed
Morning in Brisbane began not with coffee, but with nerves. The very first thing I did after opening my eyes was check for train updates. After days of disruption caused by Tropical Cyclone Koji, it finally looked like we’d caught a break. Our service north was showing as running to schedule — the first train back after the system weakened and moved inland.
Of course, “on schedule” in Queensland during the wet season always comes with an asterisk. Flooded rivers and track closures were still very real possibilities, but it was enough good news to lift the mood as we packed our bags, cautiously optimistic.
Thanks to our Westin membership, we were able to keep our room until 2pm, which worked perfectly with our 3:45pm departure on the Spirit of Queensland. Roma Street Station is only a 15-minute walk away, making for a calm and unrushed farewell to Brisbane.
A Decision at Roma Street Station
That calm didn’t last long.
At check-in for the Spirit of Queensland, we were informed that the service was only confirmed to run as far as Rockhampton, which would mean arriving there around midnight, with no accommodation or onward transport provided. Rockhampton is still roughly seven hours south of Airlie Beach, our intended stop and gateway to the Whitsundays.
As we weighed up our options, another update came through: the train was now expected to continue to Mackay. Not ideal, but Mackay is just a two-hour coach ride from Airlie Beach, putting our plans back within reach.
With no guarantees and a lot of crossed fingers, we did what travel often demands — threw caution to the wind and boarded the train.
Onboard the Spirit of Queensland RailBeds
We’d booked RailBeds, and stepping onboard immediately confirmed it was the right decision. This is a journey of over 16 hours, and doing it in a standard upright seat was never really an option.
The RailBeds are wide, comfortable and convert into fully flat beds. The carriage felt calm and well thought out, with power points, personal lighting and a layout that offered surprising privacy.
Dinner service followed shortly after departure. Meals are included with RailBed bookings and served directly to your seat. Our attendant, Daniel, was attentive throughout the journey — friendly, efficient and quietly reassuring during what was still a very fluid situation.
As night fell, Daniel returned to convert the RailBeds. Seats reclined, bases extended and fresh bedding laid out with practiced ease. Curtains were drawn, lights dimmed, and the carriage settled into its overnight rhythm.
Although the train usually runs all the way to Cairns, our plan was to disembark at Airlie Beach — although on this occasion the end of the line was going to be Mackay.
Overnight Delays and Arrival into Mackay
The train was surprisingly comfortable through the night, but we came to a prolonged stop just outside Rockhampton. Sitting stationary for close to an hour, it was hard not to imagine flooded tracks and early disembarkation.
Thankfully, the train slowly started moving again, and those fears quickly faded. We were woken around 5:30am, arriving into Mackay roughly two hours behind schedule — a small victory given the circumstances.
From Mackay, we continued by coach to Proserpine, where our transfer to Airlie Beach was already waiting.
Airlie Beach: Gateway to the Whitsundays
By the time we arrived in Airlie Beach, the long journey was catching up with us. We checked into the Airlie Beach Hotel, a practical, well-located base right on the waterfront, the room wasn’t quite ready, but a quick beer (Had to be a local one) and we then got a text to say we could now go to our room.
Airlie has long been known as a backpacker town, famous for cheap bars and budget eateries. But it feels like that reputation is evolving. The crowd appears older now, dining options are more polished — and more expensive — and the atmosphere feels calmer.
Maybe it’s backpackers from twenty years ago returning in their forties. Or maybe it’s people finally fulfilling trips they once postponed. Either way, Airlie feels different — but no less appealing.
With a 7:07am pickup the following day and weather still in charge, it was a quick dinner and an early night.
A Whitsundays Sailing Day with Lady Enid
The Whitsundays finally delivered.
The day began with coffee on deck aboard Lady Enid, easing out of Airlie Marina and getting to know fellow travellers. A sudden tropical downpour followed — but already in swimwear and stinger suits, it barely mattered.
Stinger suits are essential in North Queensland between November and May, offering protection against box jellyfish and Irukandji.
By the time we reached Whitehaven Beach, the rain had passed and the sun returned. We visited the lookout points before paddling along the pristine white silica sand below.
In the shallows, we were lucky enough to see stingrays glide past, followed by a calm, unmistakable lemon shark — completely unfazed and utterly unforgettable.
We then sailed to an area of coral to snorkel. For me this was one of the most pleasing parts of the return to Oz, where once the coral looked predominantly dead, was an abundance of new and very colourful coral, with an equally rewarding array of tropical fish. The awareness of how coral was being destroyed and implementation of rules to protect it has really paid off – this is a not to be missed activity.
The sail back was all sunshine and open water. With sails up and a glass of sparkling wine in hand, we let the Whitsundays drift slowly into the distance.
Dinner that evening back at the Airlie Beach Hotel proved better value than expected — most mains include access to an unlimited buffet of salads, starters and desserts.
Airlie Beach to Townsville: The Big Mango and Open Roads
The next morning, we collected our hire car in Airlie Beach and headed north. The three-hour drive to Townsville is an easy one — near-perfect roads, minimal traffic and long, open stretches.
We stopped at one of Australia’s great roadside icons — the Big Mango near Bowen. Loud, kitsch and impossible to ignore, it celebrates the region’s mango-growing heritage and demands a quick photo stop.
The road north passes through wide sugarcane fields and expansive cattle ranches, classic North Queensland scenery that feels quietly vast and timeless.
By early afternoon, we arrived in Townsville and checked into The Ardo — one of the hotels I’d most been looking forward to visiting. It’s covered in full detail in a standalone review.
Townsville to Cairns: The Final Drive North
After a great night’s rest at The Ardo, we hit the road again — this time for the four-hour drive to Cairns.
It’s one of the most scenic drives in North Queensland, with alternating coastal views, rainforest-covered hills and swollen river crossings after recent rain. Traffic thins, the landscape deepens in colour, and the kilometres pass easily.
By the time Cairns appeared, it felt like a genuine arrival rather than just another stop.
Exploring Cairns and Far North Queensland
Cairns immediately feels different — hotter, greener and unmistakably tropical. It’s compact and easy to navigate, centred around the waterfront esplanade and its expansive lagoon.
With four nights in Cairns, we had time to explore properly. We checked into the Shangri-La Cairns, The Marina, which will be reviewed separately, and spent our first afternoon doing exactly what was needed — by the pool, soaking up the tropical sun.
The following morning began early, capturing a stunning sunrise from our balcony before a light breakfast and a 9:30am departure on the Kuranda Scenic Railway — an experience worthy of its own dedicated piece.
Cairns proved to be a superb base. We visited Emerald Creek with my sister and enjoyed a tasting at Mt Uncle Distillery — where a smoked botanical gin stood out — then next day we travelled north for a half-day Aboriginal walking tour in the Daintree Rainforest, also covered separately soon.
The schedule also included a standout meal at Nu Nu in Palm Cove, which really lived up to its reputation, while the following, our final night allowed for a relaxed dinner in Cairns and a last catch-up with my sister before heading back south.
Cairns is less frequently visited by UK tourists than many of the other city’s in Australia, however for me it’s an absolute must! A real tropical paradise where the chilled vibes and warm breeze are the perfect place to melt away any stress.
If you want to get my thoughts on Nu Nu – you can here
A Gentle Ending in Watsons Bay
We flew back to Sydney for one final pause — a stay at the Watsons Bay Hotel, where the pace was once again slow, however with completely different vibe.
A wedding party downstairs in the outdoor bar create a Mykonos party vibe, perfect for sitting with a glass of wine and thinking about the journey that has been.
A coastal walk towards Bondi early the next morning, followed by dinner at the iconic Doyle’s fish restaurant, felt like the perfect way to close the journey. Simple, classic and rooted in place.
From Sydney to Cairns and back again, this east coast journey was shaped as much by weather and adaptation as by planning. Not every moment went to schedule — but perhaps that’s exactly why it worked.
Some journeys are about movement.
Others are about where you finally stop.
This one managed to be both and created memories that will live forever!
If you want to check out my review of the Cathay Pacific Aria Suite which we flew home on, you can do so here :
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