There’s been plenty of buzz around Lennox, the latest opening from the team behind Six by Nico, promising “unapologetic, indulgent cooking.” With that kind of statement, expectations are naturally high—so does it deliver?
First Impressions: Stylish but Slightly Flawed
Let’s start with the positives. The space itself is a real win. The open kitchen adds energy and theatre to the room, drawing you in and giving a sense of connection to the food. There’s also a newly introduced bar area, which feels like a smart addition and has the potential to become a real focal point.
However, it’s not without its issues. Our table felt like an afterthought—awkwardly positioned and overlapping with the one behind at an angle. The result? You’re uncomfortably close to strangers, and they can’t even leave their table without you moving first. Not the most relaxing way to start the evening.
Service: Missed Opportunities
Service was a bit of a mixed bag. We were seated with food menus but no drinks list, which we had to request. Small detail, but it sets the tone.
More notably, after ordering a glass of wine each, no one returned to offer a second. A simple check-in would have easily led to another round—an obvious missed opportunity both for the experience and for the restaurant.
The Food: Hits, Misses, and a Standout Star
The menu is designed around a sharing concept, with dishes arriving as they’re ready. In theory, this works well—but in practice, pacing became an issue (more on that shortly).
Highlights
- Scotch Egg (Black Pudding, Quail Egg, Brown Sauce)
A proper “Manchester egg” packed with flavour—but at just one bite, it feels undersized for a sharing concept. Two would have made much more sense.
- House Milk Bread with Garlic Butter
Soft, rich, and unapologetically garlicky. This is indulgence done right.
- Agnolotti (Smoked Potato & Rabbit Ragù)
One of the standout dishes of the night. Deep, comforting flavours lifted by fresh tarragon.
- Gnocchi with Chicken Wings & Parmesan
The star of the show. Rich, decadent, and just a little bit naughty—exactly what Lennox promises. The kind of dish that sticks with you and even inspires ideas for your own kitchen.
The Letdowns
- Loaded Potato Skins with Oxtail Ragù
Surprisingly flat. It lacked depth and didn’t deliver the richness you’d expect from oxtail.
- Fish Finger Dish with Smoked Bacon Butter Sauce
Well cooked and visually appealing, but the expected smoky punch just wasn’t there.
- Lamb Belly with Katsu Curry Sauce
The biggest disappointment. Two out of three pieces were almost entirely fat, with only one properly edible portion. The sauce was enjoyable, but it couldn’t save the dish.
Pacing & Atmosphere: Too Fast, Not Relaxed
Here’s where things really started to fall apart.
We sat down at 18:12. Orders were taken at 18:22. The first dish arrived at 18:29—and by 18:52, all eight dishes had been served.
That’s just 23 minutes from first plate to final dish.
For a concept that leans into indulgence and sharing, it felt rushed. Combined with small tables that can only comfortably hold two dishes at a time, the experience became slightly chaotic rather than enjoyable.
Ironically, while the food came quickly, getting the bill took far longer—adding to the sense of imbalance in the service.
Final Thoughts
Lennox has all the right ingredients: a strong concept, a stylish setting, and flashes of genuinely excellent cooking—particularly in the pasta dishes.
But right now, it doesn’t quite come together.
The pacing feels rushed, the service misses key moments, and while some dishes shine, others fall short of the indulgent promise. Compared to Six by Nico—which excels at delivering a cohesive, accessible tasting experience—Lennox feels like it’s still figuring out exactly what it wants to be.
Verdict
Lennox shows real potential, but on this visit, it didn’t quite hit the mark.
A few standout dishes aren’t enough to carry an experience that, overall, felt rushed and inconsistent. With some refinement—particularly around pacing, portion balance, and consistency—this could become something special. But for now, it’s a mixed bag rather than a must-visit.
If you love to eat out in Manchester – why not check out some of my other reviews, suck as:-
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